In today’s show Captain Liz Clark details the childhood experience that empowered her to solo sail the Pacific for a decade, the most terrifying moment at sea, the dietary shift that disappeared her chronic illness, and what remote civilizations taught her about humanity. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

The land artist and Outstanding In The Field founder joins to explain why being caught inside is the pinnacle of surfing, how his mother’s language of math is encoded in his artwork, dance as ultimate therapy, and how the difference between failure and success is an illusion of perspective. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoi…

Craftsman Josh Martin joins us to discuss inventing the Shark Board, why people morph into looking like their dog, how ancient materials may be the future of board building, constructing a camper out of surfboard material, and making a living as an Instagram Influencer. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Jersey native Sam Hammer joins us to discuss how losing in contests led to a pro surf career, how seeds of relationships can birth enduring paychecks, how cold water has been his gateway to longevity, and the power of under-exertion. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

The Australian Surfing Hall of Famer joins us to discuss how riding a wooden fence picket led to a surfboard revolution, how cosmic design rights all injustice, why you’re riding the wrong fins, and the creative growth that is unlocked by killing the ego. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Mr. Sunset opens up about the anxieties of wartime during the Vietnam draft, eating a tablecloth (literally) to earn the license for Quiksilver, the value of ignorance, earning and losing a small fortune, conquering a 30 year substance addiction, and positioning himself to surf into 100 years of age. Enjoy! (Originally recorded in March 2020) Learn…

Maui laminator Nic Timpone joins us to discuss the weight and privilege of continuing a five decade legacy of board building, how incremental improvements in sustainable materials net meaningful change, the fallacy of Instagram virality, and why he’ll be ditching his board henceforth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.co…

Professional surfer, author, ecofeminist, mother, Lauren Hill joins us to discuss how a commitment to curiosity has resulted in an unlikely surf career, an even less likely life as a farmer, and the cosmic premonition that inspired her to move across the world in a quest to stay centered. Enjoy! (Originally aired September 2020) Learn more about yo…

Pro surfer turned shaper, Shane Stoneman discusses the immeasurable influence environment plays in one’s work and well-being, the restorative virtues of painting, music as a conduit to connect with his children, and how to mitigate the physical trauma of shaping surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Patrick Trefz joins us to discuss how primary cooking lessons from his mother and a missive of exploration from his father led to 30+ years of travel, a tenure at Surfer Magazine, analysis of his friends through documentary, and the idea that food might leave the most indelible imprint of a culture. It’s all chronicled in his latest book, Ode To Tr…

In our final installment, AJW reminds us why it’s often preferable to not have a plan, how fasting for 10 days led to him catching the wave of his life at Peahi, solo travel led him to a nude hot spring in the mountains of Japan, and how accepting a job in a sketchy situation evolved into a flourishing relationships. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad…

Adam Warden shares the early lesson from his father that gave him the tools to travel the world, how simply showing up nurtures opportunity, the benefit of being willing to take a punch, why irrepressibly moxie trumps talent, and the value of not knowing. Part one of two! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Retired Marine Combat Photographer Clint Runyon shares how he discovered surfing while stationed on Camp Pendleton (Trestles adjacent), how an economic crunch led him to shaping, building out a surfboard “factory” on deployment, and details the journey to discover the true value of a surfboard. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcast…

In today’s episode Superwolf explains his journey from South Beach Miami’s disco scene, to Southern California’s surfboard factories, how Wavestorm legally plagiarized his resin colorwork, and reveals his alternate life as an underground LA DJ. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Hank Warner returns to share the moment that inspired him to become a father, detail the dwindling profit margin of surfboards, recount the greatest surfing he’s ever witnessed, and explain why he’s opts to never retire. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoicesVon David Lee Scales

San Diego native, apprentice to board building pioneers worldwide, Godfather to pro surfers, 57 years of shaping, 30,000 boards deep, Hank Warner shares tales from a life immersed in foam dust, brethren, and the sea. Part 1 of 2. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices…

Chris Ruddy recounts his teenaged voyage from Hawaii to San Diego, the gift of access and opportunity given to him by Joe Roper, regifting it to Marcio Zouvi, how corporate manufacturing has replaced pioneering board builders, and how moving inland solves an economic puzzle and unlocks a tenfold opportunity. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices.…

Matt Parker is partnered with Coco Ho on a new surfboard label, XOCoco, reimagining surfboard design for the female athlete. We're giving away an XOCoco Halcyon model on March 1st. Today Parker explains the project, the board, and why you should reconsider what you know about board design. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoic…

Iconic Queensland shaper Dick Van Straalen shares his origin story and details how living with dyslexia has informed his surfing and surfboard building. He discusses helpful treatment strategies and explains how his acute mindset has empowered him to pioneer material usage and design theory for the past 60 years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad cho…

Laminations San Diego sander Alex Banyay details the inner workings of the most revered surfboard factories, quantifies the human costs of outsourced manufacturing, explains why preserving history requires hiring surfer-labor, and reveals which shaper is responsible for the greatest innovations in modern surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad cho…

Westlife’s Kian Egan joins us to discuss his teenaged, rapid rise to pop music stardom, how discovering surfing allowed him reconnect with his core values, why taking time off stimulates growth, and how a once boy-band is still expanding their popularity and depth into their man-band years. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoi…

In today’s episode filmmaker Darieus Legg extolls the virtues and perils of being raised on a sailboat, explains how valuing external validation is a zero sum game, recounts why creative expression can buoy depression, and shares how his simply pursuit to tell the story of a used surfboard unraveled his life’s calling. Enjoy! Learn more about your …

We want to gift you a surfboard. Ryan Lynch is here to help. A thought leader in surfboard sustainability, the former Tesla engineer has focused his efforts on eliminating resin from surfboard production and designing high-performance, long lasting surfboards using regenerative construction materials without sacrificing one iota of performance and …

In today’s show Eden Saul joins us to explain why the mat is the most dynamic surf craft, how he planted Dead Kooks seeds globally for free while gleaning knowledge from the best builders, how increasing production decreased his business growth, and why he’s committed to purchasing other shaper’s surfboards. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices.…

In an apple orchard, on an island thirty miles north of Seattle, eight years removed from his last surf is where I found Drew Kampion. Author of six books, countless surf articles, and perhaps the main person responsible for surfing’s mischievous, irreverent presentation, Kampion reflects on his early years at Surfer, analyzes current surf media, a…