307: Umami, Petrol and Vegetal Aromas Behind the Glass in the Chemical and Sensorial Terroir of Wine Tasting with Gus Zhu

Unreserved Wine Talk

Can you learn to appreciate aromas such as spice, petrol, and even gamey or foxy notes in wine? And would you want to, or should you? How can you better understand the taste of umami in what you eat and drink? How do culture and lifestyle influence your perception of the aromas and taste of wine?

In this episode of the Unreserved Wine Talk podcast, I'm chatting with Master of Wine, Gus Zhu.

You can find the wines we discussed at https://www.nataliemaclean.com/winepicks

Highlights

What was the moment Gus realized he wanted to make wine his career?

How did it feel to become the first Chinese Master of Wine (MW)?

Which aspects of Gus’ multicultural education helped him pass his MW exam on the first try?

What is Gus’ book, Behind the Glass, about?

What makes Behind the Glass different from other books on wine science?

What are chemical terroir and sensorial terroir?

What was the most surprising thing Gus learned while researching and writing Behind the Glass?

Why is the concept of the “tongue map” wrong, and what do we now know about how our tastebuds work?

How can you better understand the taste of umami?

Can you learn to appreciate vegetal and herbal aromas in wine?

How do terpenes present in wine aromas, and why do people like them?

Why might supertasters be at a disadvantage in the modern world?

How do culture and lifestyle influence your perception of the aromas and taste of wine?

Key Takeaways

As Gus explains, we evolved to reject certain smells for our survival. For example, if a plant or fruit or food smells vegetal, it's a sign of under ripeness so it either doesn’t taste good or isn’t nutritious enough for consumption. In some cases, it could mean that it’s poisonous. So it makes sense then that we may not like vegetal aromas in wine.

In Asian countries, Gus says, they have a longer history with fermented food and drink. They also don’t over season or over cook protein dishes so that the taste of umami remains. Umami comes from the amino acids in protein, but we often get confused because we combine our proteins with fat, salt, and other things. If you barbecue a mushroom and don’t season it, the juice or broth released in the little dent in the mushroom is a savory, yummy, umami taste.

Gus believes that we should pay more attention to what we eat and drink. He believes that people who like the Chinese experience a more diverse range of flavours and develop a greater appreciation for them. Similarly, we develop a greater vocabulary to express what we’re eating and drinking when we think about it.

About Gus Zhu

Gus Zhu is the first Chinese national to become a Master of Wine. He works as a research and development scientist at Harv 81 Group, specializing in chemical analysis and sensory studies of aroma compounds in wine, cork, and oak. Gus holds a Master of Science degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis, which he earned in 2017, and achieved his MW qualification in 2019. In addition to his research in flavor chemistry and sensory science, Gus is a professional wine educator, offering tutorials to wine enthusiasts around the world.

To learn more, visit https://www.nataliemaclean.com/307.