That's Not Real Climbing podcast

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This Is Woman's Work with Nicole Kalil

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QUALIFIED: How Competency Checking and Race Collide at Work with Shari Dunn | 284 33:58

vor 11 Tagen33:58

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In this episode, we delve into the concept of being "qualified" in the workplace, examining who gets labeled as such, who doesn't, and the underlying reasons. We explore "competency checking"—the practice of scrutinizing individuals' abilities—and how it disproportionately affects underrepresented groups, often going unnoticed or unchallenged. Our discussion aims to redefine qualifications in a fair, equitable, and actionable manner. Our guest, Shari Dunn , is an accomplished journalist, former attorney, news anchor, CEO, university professor, and sought-after speaker. She has been recognized as Executive of the Year and a Woman of Influence, with her work appearing in Fortune Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, Ad Age, and more. Her new book, Qualified: How Competency Checking and Race Collide at Work , unpacks what it truly means to be deserving and capable—and why systemic barriers, not personal deficits, are often the real problem. Her insights challenge the narratives that hold so many of us back and offer practical solutions for building a more equitable future. Together, we can build workplaces and communities that don’t just reflect the world we live in, but the one we want to create. A world where being qualified is about recognizing the talent and potential that’s been overlooked for far too long. It’s not just about getting a seat at the table—it’s about building an entirely new table, one designed with space for all of us. Connect with Our Guest Shari Dunn Website& Book - Qualified: https://thesharidunn.com LI: https://www.linkedin.com/today/author/sharidunn TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@thesharidunn Related Podcast Episodes: How To Build Emotionally Mature Leaders with Dr. Christie Smith | 272 Holding It Together: Women As America's Safety Net with Jessica Calarco | 215 How To Defy Expectations with Dr. Sunita Sah | 271 Share the Love: If you found this episode insightful, please share it with a friend, tag us on social media, and leave a review on your favorite podcast platform! 🔗 Subscribe & Review: Apple Podcasts | Spotify | Amazon Music…

That's Not Real Climbing

Serie-Home•Feed

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.

Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!

For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

36 Episoden

#Sports #Jinni Xia

That's Not Real Climbing

updated vor 20 Tagen

Serie-Home•Feed

A glimpse into everything behind world of competition climbing.

Hear from setters, organizers, athletes, and everyone in between to learn about this fast-growing sport!

For further discussion, check out the comp climbing Discord at https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp.

36 Episoden

#Sports #Jinni Xia

Alle Folgen

That's Not Real Climbing

1
Ep 35: Anna Apel - PRESSURE and Expectations as a Young Climber 58:43

vor 20 Tagen58:43

58:43

Anna is a boulder & lead climber from team Germany and one of the younger athletes I’ve interviewed so far as she still competed in youth world champs last year. In this episode, we’ll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the pressure of expectations after FLASHING all qualis boulders in Innsbruck, and we get some insight into team Germany. Guest links : Anna’s Instagram Reference links : Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 3:50 - Starting climbing at 3! 8:18 - Competing in youth and Senior Circuit at the same time 12:27 - Youth setting vs senior setting 14:42 - Big performance boost in 2024 17:23 - Flashing all Innsbruck quails boulders 22:22 - Why younger climbers dominate the WC circuit 25:09 - German national team 30:04 - German military sponsorship 34:04 - 2025 season 36:19 - Finding out if the combined format will be in LA 2028 39:05 - Non-climbing hobbies + sewing! 42:23 - Outdoor projects 43:28 - IG Q: What is the hardest part of being an athlete? 49:06 - IG Q: Tips on improving arm strength 50:27 - IG Q: Where can I buy the Germany down jacket? 51:12 - IG Q: Non-climbing related goal 52:58 - IG Q: Thoughts on the minimum BMI requirement 57:29 - Outro and where to find Anna…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 34: Rodrigo Hanada - From CHUBBY to World Cup Climber?! 1:07:32

vor 5 weeks1:07:32

1:07:32

Rodrigo is a boulder & lead climber from team Brazil. He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018, but since then has been a 2x south american cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the world cup circuit! In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, how he feels like a “weaker” climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid, and mindset tips he uses while competing. Guest links : Rodrigo’s Instagram Reference links : Brazilian Hold Brand - Crux Night Moves - Outdoor Brazilian Climbing Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:28 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:29 - Starting climbing only 8 years ago! 7:24 - How to mentally recover from knee injury 10:38 - The importance of hold and movement exposure 13:57 - Living in Australia 16:38 - Competing in Prague with a knee brace 21:45 - The difficulties of climbing hard in South America 25:31 - Brazil climber funding 30:19 - Climbing scene in Brazil 36:15 - Thoughts on the upcoming 2025 Brazil WC 39:27 - Mindset and overcoming being a "weaker" climber 48:43 - Once a fat kid, always a fat kid 51:47 - Discord Q: Top 3 slab tips 56:13 - Discord Q: Thoughts on limiting country participation? Does it actually help smaller nations? 1:02:20 - Discord Q: Outdoor climbing projects in Brazil? 1:05:19 - S/O to South American climbers and where to find Rodrigo…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 33: Niki & Jake - Routesetting + Hold HOT TAKES 1:27:19

vor 7 weeks1:27:19

1:27:19

Niklas Wiechmann and Jake Mason are routesetters from "Another Setting Podcast" but you may already be familiar with them because Niki was my FIRST ever podcast guest and you are probably familiar with Jake from the Bouldering Bobats. In this episode, we absolutely TRASH US gym hold selection and setting, they give their opinions on worldwide setting styles, comp formats, and moves to LEAVE BEHIND in 2024, and we discuss freelance vs world cup routesetter pay. Guest links : “Another Setting Podcast” Niki’s Youtube Jake’s Youtube Niki’s Instagram Jake’s Instagram Reference links : The hold that doesn’t need to exist Routesetting workshops through Frankenjura Academy Dockmasters 2025 - January Studiobloc masters 2025 - March Quarryman Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:33 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:29 - Stretching! 5:36 - The bromance + getting into setting 10:23 - Settings trends in each country 15:10 - TRASHING hold selection in US gyms 24:54 - Lack of style in world cups 32:26 - Setting for Brawl on the Wall 42:28 - Fun experimental comp formats 48:08 - Niki's setting future + Frankenjura academy 52:58 - How will setting innovate? 57:12 - STOP setting these moves and START setting these! 1:01:41 - World Cup setter dreams or freelancing + pay 1:09:04 - Another Setting Podcast 1:11:57 - Discord Q: Why is it rare to find footwork-intensive climbs in gyms? 1:14:53 - Discord Q: How important is hold selection in order to force a move? 1:19:27 - Discord Q: What is the "jug ladder" of parkour routes? 1:23:47 - Words of widsom + Where to find Niki and Jake…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 32: Andy McVittie - Evolution of Climbing Injuries in Competition 1:41:38

vor 9 weeks1:41:38

1:41:38

Andy is a climbing PT from Process Physiotherapy. He has been climbing for over 30 years, has coached in the past, and over time has noticed climbing injuries change as the style of climbing has evolved in the competition scene. In this episode, we'll debunk some training and PT myths, talk about the differences between male and female climbers and the types of injuries they face, and we’ll hear about why he thinks fingers are strong enough. Guest links : Website Instagram Reference links : Frontiers | Top of the podium, at what cost? injuries in female international elite climbers Painfully ignorant? Impact of gender and aim of training on injuries in climbing | BMJ Open Sport & Exercise Medicine Olympic competition climbing: the beginning of a new era-a narrative review - PubMed David Barrans IFSC History Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!! 2:17 - Holidays 4:22 - Getting into climbing, coaching, PT 11:31 - Evolution of climbing injuries over time 19:24 - Is there any competition move that's too dangerous? 26:59 - Shoulders, hanging and catching one arm moves 36:11 - Fingers are strong enough!! 40:55 - World Cup climbers using KT tape, metal stickers, ice packs 51:14 - MYTH: Climbing ability declines as you age 1:03:00 - MYTH: Injuries happen from specific occurrences 1:07:14 - How injuries show up differently between male and female climbers 1:17:56 - Period cycles and injury 1:27:54 - DISCORD Q: How to deal with DIP issues/synovitis? 1:34:20 - Discord Q: How should an experienced climber integrate more training? 1:38:29 - A PT's new years resolution 1:40:09 - Closing thoughts + where to find Andy…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 31: Oceana Mackenzie - Shingles at the Olympics?! 1:12:51

vor 13 weeks1:12:51

1:12:51

"She goes by Oce" is a boulder and lead climber from Australia! She's had an amazing 2024 season with her first world cup boulder medal in Prague, and also recently competed in her 2nd Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn about how she battled THREE health issues while competing in the Paris olympics, how Paris compared to Tokyo, her training with team Switzerland and making lead climbing gains, and her (thankfully far in the future) plans for retirement. Guest links : Instagram Tiktok Reference links : Anime Recommendation K-drama Recommendation Thank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/ Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro 1:19 - MadRock Shoutout!! 2:06 - Post-season break 4:09 - Being away from home for 6 months/Switzerland coaching 9:18 - Starting out climbing with the family 12:24 - Birth order stereotypes 15:16 - Shingles in Paris 19:23 - Meeting other Olympians but not Raygun 21:13 - How Olympic finals felt compared to qualis 27:06 - Comparing Paris to Tokyo Olympics 36:12 - Being emotional on camera 38:44 - Top athletes being gone from 2024 WC season 40:17 - Making lead climbing gains 45:18 - Winning her first WC medal 51:24 - Competition schedule preference 54:59 - Brisbane Olympics and future retirement plans 57:52 - Discord Q: how do you navigate a vegan diet while traveling for comps 59:09- Weeb/koreaboo? 1:03:01 - Discord Q: Could you imagine doing a Swiss bouldering comp next year? 1:04:47 - Discord Q: Do you have any interesting experiences in Japan? 1:06:30 - Discord Q: Are Australian gyms too focused on commercial climbing? 1:09:49 - Traveling with her sister 1:11:53 - Where to find Oce…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 30: Tom Greenall - Ex-GB Head Coach Facing Public Backlash 1:35:41

vor 17 weeks1:35:41

1:35:41

Tom is team GB’s ex-head coach! He personally coached Shauna Coxsey into getting her Tokyo Olympic ticket and has worked with the rest of team GB up until he left the national team earlier this year in April. In this episode, we'll learn about why he’s banned from the USA, the strategy for getting Shauna to qualify for the Olympics, and the politics and public backlash he faced working in the circuit that led to his eventual resignation. There is an EXTRA FULL-LENGTH EPISODE available with Tom on Patreon available to members only: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Email Reference links : Wedge Climbing Janja Unfiltered Period Talk Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro/Recovering from knee surgery 5:49 - Starting climbing + competing + coaching 10:20 - How he got BANNED from the USA 13:18 - How to get into coaching now 18:57 - Thoughts on Instagram coaching + current training philosophies 25:50 - Coaching Shauna Coxsey into the Olympics 34:15 - Why Team GB found such great form in 2024 37:12 - What makes Toby and Erin stand out from the rest 39:12 - Difference between coaching individually vs acting as head coach 40:56 - How GB training camps work 44:30 - Athlete consistency during comps + period cycles 53:45 - Why he quit as head coach of GB 1:01:32 - Dealing with a toxic climbing community 1:08:38 - The most difficult parts of coaching 1:10:56 - Favorite/least favorite travel moments on the circuit 1:14:59 - Recommendation to other coaches on stress management 1:17:25 - The future of comp climbing + athlete money 1:22:45 - "Coaching people to their own individual Olympics" 1:26:45 - Tom's future 1:28:22 - Discord Q: Does cohesion in a national team make a difference? 1:30:48 - Discord Q: Did individual coaching ever interfere with your work as national team coach? 1:32:54 - Final thoughts + where to find Tom…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 29: Sofya Yokoyama - How Puberty and Eating Changes Climbing 1:24:46

vor 19 weeks1:24:46

1:24:46

Sofya is a boulderer on team Switzerland and she’s part of the wave of OG climbing Youtubers! In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague, we get some insight into team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues, and she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame it. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Youtube Reference links : Weight Vest Video Training App Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Reflections on Prague WC 6:05 - Climbing + Competing start 7:58 - Worldwide childhood and origins of her accent 10:52 - Boulderer getting into lead training? 15:40 - The "no expectations" comp trick 19:55 - Slab is the enemy 22:10 - Being a short climber 26:08 - Training schedule 30:03 - Team Switzerland transformation 31:42 - Swiss athlete funding 35:23 - Money and YouTube 41:41 - Behind the scenes of Youtube 43:31 - Climbing with a weight vest controversy? 48:19 - Climbing, puberty, and eating disorders 54:47 - Bulking & cutting? 1:04:04 - The pro comp climbing dating scene 1:08:47 - Training with Nicolai 1:10:48 - Favorite hobby is...escape rooms?! 1:12:54 - Future goals & being born in the 1900s 1:18:55 - Shoutout from Tom Greenall 1:19:27 - Discord statement: calling Sofya by the wrong name 1:19:51 - Discord Q: Who's your favorite YouTuber? 1:23:35 - Where to find Sofya…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 28: Stanley & Zulazfar - The Pressure on IFSC Judges 2:01:43

vor 21 weeks2:01:43

2:01:43

Another double-guest episode! Stanley is an IFSC event delegate and judge chair, while Zul is officially a newly minted IFSC judge. In this episode, we’ll talk about how to become an IFSC judge, hear about their relationships and interactions with athletes and coaches, and we’ll hear some crazy stories about their judging experiences under pressure and cancelling events due to rain like in Keqiao. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Stanley’s Instagram Zul’s Instagram Reference links : Appeal against Sorato during Boulder Finals at SLC 2023 Appeal Form Stickman (Implied beta) on M1 Boulder Finals at SLC 2023 Bee incident during Speed Finals at SLC 2023 Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Getting back from Paris Olympics 7:31 - Their IFSC Roles 12:35 - Why become an IFSC judge? 20:34 - How to become an IFSC judge 23:46 - The pressure of judging at the IFSC level 26:51 - Being taken advantage of by coaches 31:09 - Messing up an appeal in Salt Lake City 38:44 - Things route setters do that judges HATE 49:19 - The appeals process 53:55 - Judge relationship with coaches 1:01:27 - Giving athletes yellow cards 1:14:06 - Fixing the weather 1:17:28 - Performing a skit at the World Cup opening ceremony 1:20:59 - Why is the rain issue never fixed? 1:26:58 - Belayer protest walk-out & other crazy stories 1:35:56 - Things to be improved in the IFSC 1:42:25 - Discord Q: How different are WCs based on who's organizing them 1:52:11 - Discord Q: Should corporations host world cups instead of national federations? 1:54:20 - Final thoughts, where to find Stanley & Zul…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 27: Jesse Grupper - Competing at the Olympics Injured 1:16:27

vor 23 weeks1:16:27

1:16:27

Jesse is a boulder + lead climber (mostly lead climber) from the USA who is fresh from the Olympics! In this episode, he walks us through his entire Olympics experience, from training through his first ever finger injury, to balancing training with his engineering job, to meeting other athletes in the Olympic village. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Reference links : Protect Our Winters Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Post-Olympics travels 7:04 - Climbing and competing start 9:41 - Youth training + competition 12:39 - Wanting to work as an engineer 17:55 - Only getting 1 shot on a World Cup lead route 20:52 - Slipping on the Olympics semis lead route 23:12 - Boulder mindset as a lead climber 26:11 - Olympics Combined format strategy 29:42 - Finger injury leading up to the Olympics 35:34 - Olympics training with a hurt finger 42:41 - Olympics village experience - feeling like a real athlete 47:17 - Dealing with post-Olympic blues 51:22 - Goals post-Olympics 52:55 - LA 2028 plans 58:52 - Protect our Winters work 1:04:35 - Discord Q: Why does it seem like you're friends with every climber on the circuit?! (And a discussion on competitiveness) 1:10:03 - Discord Q: Professional and climbing career intersection? 1:12:35 - Final thoughts: Voting and memes, where to find Jesse…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 26: Olga Niemiec - Setting the Olympic Boulders 1:17:14

vor 25 weeks1:17:14

1:17:14

Olga is an official IFSC routesetter, and she recently came back from Paris, where she helped set the Olympic boulder rounds. In this episode, we'll learn about what it takes to become an IFSC setter, what it was like setting at the Olympics and trying to make the rounds fair, and how she balances setting, training, and traveling all while being a single mother. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Reference links : Boulder + Lead routesetting guidelines and point distribution goals Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Break after Paris 2:35 - Climbing since childhood and being a team kid 5:36 - Almost an Olympic snowboarder... 7:28 - First time routesetting...was at an international comp 16:26 - Becoming an IFSC routesetter 20:09 - Setting for boulder vs lead 21:57 - Dealing with the boulder setting guidelines 26:06 - Trying to balance boulder vs lead difficulty at the Olympics 35:36 - Height and route setting - The Ai Mori problem 39:38 - Setting for men vs women 42:30 - Setting for future Olympics? 46:54 - Raising 2 little climbers 48:26 - Competing again after giving birth 53:21 - Hospitalizations in Budapest and Paris 55:54 - Balancing training, traveling, motherhood 57:47 - Non-climbing activities and snowboarding 1:02:08 - Discord Q: How do you deal with negative setting comments? 1:07:31 - Discord Q: Should the 2 zone format stay or go? 1:10:15 - Discord Q: How do you improve your route setting skills? 1:12:59 - Discord Q: Unique challenges you face being a setter and mother 1:15:55 - Where to find Olga…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 25: Allen Lactaoen - "Average" Climber to IFSC Athlete 1:39:02

vor 27 weeks1:39:02

1:39:02

I know Allen from our climbing training class in San Diego, but he is also a boulderer for a brand new IFSC federation, Team Guam. In this episode, we'll learn about what it’s like competing on the world cup circuit as an “average” climber who only started climbing at 23 years old and works a full time engineering job. We’ll also hear about what it’s like as a NEW competitor competing in Innsbruck including the afterparties, and all about the Guam climbing scene. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Reference links : Climbing Gems Bag Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Our climbing sesh 2:57 - Starting climbing at 23 years old 6:59 - Why he started comp climbing at 29 years old 11:15 - Wanting to bring climbing back to Guam 19:01 - Being a weekend warrior 24:14 - Current training + work balance 29:43 - Never having a personal coach 32:27 - First World Cup experience in Innsbruck 38:31 - The difficulty going to a WC alone 45:23 - What people do in ISO for 8 hours 51:09 - Thoughts while taking on his first WC Boulder 54:07 - Least favorite comp moment 57:02 - Innsbruck afterparty 59:37 - Favorite comp moment 1:05:40 - Climbing Gems chalk bag 1:10:13 - Where is Guam 1:13:02 - Guam climbing scene 1:23:53 - Discord Q: What made you decide to participate in world cups as an average climber? 1:30:15 - Discord Q: Are you going to all future bouldering WCs? 1:35:24 - Final thoughts/where to find Allen…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 24: Madison Richardson - Competitiveness + Marrying a Teammate 1:32:07

vor 29 weeks1:32:07

1:32:07

Madison is a boulderer for Team Canada and you may have seen her Youtube videos with her husband Zach on their channel, Richardsons Climbing. In this episode, we'll learn about the issues the Canadian climbing team faces such as not having a head coach, her “lose” streak when it comes to Canadian nationals, Youtube and deleting social media, and we’ll get her take on getting married young and relationships among climbers. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Youtube Reference links : Ditching Social Media Blog Post Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - The never-ending 2024 season 6:11 - Climbing + competing start 7:53 - Losing interest in lead climbing 16:37 - Current training program 19:43 - Moving to Germany and then back to Canada 26:42 - Canada's funding struggle/lack of coaching 33:31 - Canadian geographical difficulties 37:26 - Discord Q: What obstacles will Canadian climbers need to overcome with Alannah and Sean retiring? 39:32 - Comparison, competitive mindset, and the nationals curse 44:00 - Deleting all social media 49:31 - Social media and sponsorships 55:11 - Making the exception for Youtube 1:02:26 - Getting married young to another climber 1:08:06 - Siblings or dating?! 1:10:30 - Take on relationships between World Cup climbers 1:14:39 - Competitiveness within the relationship 1:21:40 - Relationship with Alannah Yip 1:24:36 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the current field of comp climbing women compared to other nations? 1:27:28 - Discord Q: Would there be a benefit to a more dedicated training center in Canada? 1:30:09 - Final thoughts + where to find Madison…

That's Not Real Climbing

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Ep 23: Sebastian Depke - Getting Paraclimbing Into the Paralympics 1:37:11

vor 31 weeks1:37:11

1:37:11

Sebastian is a German paraclimber. He is also the chair of the paraclimbing commission, and he worked on filing the application to get climbing into the Paralympics for LA 2028, which only recently got approved! In this episode, we'll learn about his journey accepting that his disease would affect his body and climbing forever, what the process was like for getting climbing into the Paralympics, the drama behind the paraclimbing classification process, and we talk about his harrowing 1000km journey to the Innsbruck world cup on just a solar hand bike. Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Guest links : Instagram Youtube Reference links : IFSC Classification Information FAQ Video on the bike Short teaser about the handbike Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp Join Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Getting into climbing/paraclimbing 9:43 - Learning to live with ankylosing spondylitis 23:58 - Applying for paraclimbing to become a Paralympic sport 35:25 - Onsighting the Paralympic application and beating out surfing 39:53 - What sport classes will be in the Paralympics 44:51 - Requirements paraclimbing must fulfill to participate in the Olympics 49:55 - Classification drama 58:07 - How classification works 1:05:15 - The difficult job of classifiers: fluctuating impairments 1:09:25 - Funding his climbing 1:13:07 - And the solar hand bike was born 1:28:50 - Proudest outdoor climbing achievement 1:33:00 - Closing thoughts/where to find Sebastian…

That's Not Real Climbing

1
Ep 22: Noah Makaiwi - Hidden Heroes: Volunteer Belayers 1:38:01

vor 34 weeks1:38:01

1:38:01

Noah is the Assistant National Belay Coordinator of USA Climbing and has volunteer belayed at events nationally and internationally at IFSC youth worlds in 2022. In this episode, we'll learn about how to get into volunteer belaying, some interesting tidbits on belay devices and catching falls that you may not have thought about before, what the differences are belaying different paraclimbers, and some bad falls that he has had to witness. NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Guest links : Instagram USA Belay Instagram Reference links : First draw falls at USA Team Trails Belay shoe clip incident mentioned from Discord Leg caught in rope Youth Worlds Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Getting into climbing and belaying 8:43 - Any certifications needed to volunteer belay? 14:53 - Belay devices 21:01 - Climbers falling + getting lowered at the same time 23:34 - Do you get paid to belay? 25:58 - Belayer prep for a comp 37:03 - Do athletes ever get to choose their belayer? 48:29 - NO belay glasses?! 51:49 - Differences between youth, elite, para 1:00:28 - Tandem belaying in paraclimbing 1:03:01 - Nervousness while belaying 59:22 - Team boulder arena com 1:08:46 - Climber interactions 1:11:11 - Bad falls during comps 1:17:06 - How to become an IFSC belayer 1:21:13 - Discord Q: Common bad practices belayers need to stop doing 1:26:52 - Discord Q: Have you ever had to remove a volunteer belayer? 1:29:54 - Discord Q: Have peopled ever submitted appeals for being shortroped? 1:31:27 - Discord Q: Thoughts on the double Fisherman or Yosemite tuck? 1:33:20 - Closing thoughts/where to find Noah…

That's Not Real Climbing

1
Ep 21: Ross Fulkerson - Mindset and Meditation Masterclass 2:18:52

vor 36 weeks2:18:52

2:18:52

Ross is a boulder and lead climber on Team USA and you may be familiar with his Youtube channel where he documents his climbing adventures and shares coaching tips. In this episode, we'll learn about his bikepacking adventure that he skipped the first half of the 2024 world cup season for, hear about his struggle trying to balance competitions with his desire to travel and all his other hobbies, the importance of mindset and meditation, and if you're a USA bay area gym climber, maybe close your ears when he starts trashing the bay area gym scene. This episode is full of training and mindset tips! NEW PATREON: www.patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Guest links : Instagram Youtube Mind to Motion Clinics Reference links : How to Train/Stay Fit While Traveling Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.com Follow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast Join the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zp To help support the podcast, you can become a Patreon member: patreon.com/CompetitionClimbing Or, for a one time donation, buy me a "chalk bag": www.buymeacoffee.com/compclimbing Timestamps of discussion topics 0:00 - Intro/Going over my experience competing in Vail 3:35 - Absolutely TRASHING California Bay Area gyms 11:38 - Why Ross didn't attend the first few 2024 world cups 13:15 - Insane bikepacking adventure 20:16 - What makes going to a World Cup worth it 25:10 - How Ross got into climbing 34:52 - Class5 Climbing Team 42:58 - The importance of who you climb with 44:58 - Struggle balancing travel desires + competition 49:16 - Hometown advantage makes a BIG difference 55:12 - Climbing training tip: strength training staircase 59:22 - Team boulder arena comp 1:04:48 - Mindset: How to turn around negative thoughts 1:08:51 - Fixing his SLC finals mindset 1:15:39 - Meditation for climbing 1:22:43 - "Being comfortable with the uncomfortable" 1:29:40 - Balancing other sports with climbing 1:40:16 - Using your non-dominant hand 1:45:17 - Making time for Youtube 1:50:05 - Proudest moment as a coach 1:55:42 - Discord Q: How to use skincare products for comp climbing? 2:00:27 - Discord Q: How to incorporate outdoor climbing into training? Any projects? 2:07:51 - Discord Q: Favorite non-US teams to train with 2:11:30 - Discord Q: Is the USA team dynamic more competitive or supportive? 2:15:07 - Leave a comment with more questions if you want a pt 2/Where to find Ross…

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